Outlander Series Inspired Knits

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I haven’t even seen it or the trailer yet but I love these designs. Don’t you?

Ugh, just started to watch episode 1 and there is gore and sex in the first 20 min so I won’t be recommending it but the time period is nice.

http://lionbrand.com/outlander.html

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Outlander the Series Kit: Lavish Mac Kenzie Clan Shawl (Crochet)

 

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Outlander the Series Kit: Return to Inverness Cowl (Knit)
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Outlander the Series Kit: Journey to Standing Stones Arm Warmers (Crochet)

 

Heartland

 

When researching to find a movie around the same time period, I realized there are more than a hundred movies on TV that are around the same time period but not really in Scotland in the 2nd half of the 18th century. It reminded me of Little Women and Narnia and Braveheart. I thought about the yarn. Well it looks like the used the wool from the sheep or whatever animals they herded in Scotland.  They probably handspun the yarn and dyed it themselves. They probably used natural colors and natural dyes. They were probably thicker knits because Scotland is a colder weather country that is not very sunny.

Then I thought about this time and era. Remember that I am in California. What does this mean for the average person who is not a model and has to accessorize what they already have. What about Plus sizes and older women with grey hair and women of color. We tend not to wear dark grey if our skin is dark or wear browns if our hair is brown.  The natural colors are beautiful and that is part of the inspiration of it. I thought about the trends in the past….grunge and shabby chick….but grunge is part of the death culture so I didn’t want to deal with that and it would look silly if we wear big heavy knits here in California. And what if it rains? What knits are good for the rain. Mind you it is 2015 and we have acrylic that can look like wool, also.

So anyway,  I decided to look for some similar looks but using patterns that are free so that we can make them ourselves using acrylic and pick about 6 different styles in knit and crochet patterns. If you do use their pattern I am sure the designers would be happy with a thank you and if you would visit their websites.

 

 

Outlander Clair Cowl pic

Outlander Crochet Clair’s Cowl

E.S. Paul’s Ravelry Store

 

donalda_gilchrist_mitts_017a_small2

midfalltnbt-12_small2

Knitted Highland Travel Shawl

by The Next Beautiful Thing

 

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Clair Starz Knit Outlander Sassenach Shrug

by Polly Foo Foo

 

 LW4679_1328_small2

Knitted Romantic Caplet

by Cathy Payson

 

Back to Scotland

Back to Scotland Crochet Cowl

by Tammy Hildebrand

Men’s Baseball Cap Earwarmer

ear warmer on cap

These  double layered ear warmers can be worn alone or as an attachment to your baseball cap. The back curves in a little. The outer layer is done with a larger hook than the inner so they can fit together better.

I-Hook (5.5 mm) for outer layer, H-hook for inner layer

Yarn- #4 Worsted weight

Foundation: Loosely chain 72, slip stitch to form ring.

Round 1:  Chain 2, hdc in each chain. (For intermediate crocheters, hdc in each 3rd loop which is the underside of the chain.) Sl st at top of 1st hdc (72 sts)

Round 2: ch 1, turn work, 1 sc in same ch, 1 sc all around (72 sts) (Intermediate crocheters, work in back loops)

Round 3: ch 1, turn work, 1 hdc in same ch 1 area and 1 hdc in next 71 sts  (72 sts)

Optional:  to make a wide band, repeat row 2 and 3

Row 4: ch 1, turn work, sk 1st ch 1 area and 1 sc in the next 49 sts, in next 2 chs, do 1 sc2tog. (50 sts)  (Intermediate crocheters, work in back loops)

Row 5: ch 1, turn work, 1 hdc in same st. 1 hdc in each of the next 49 sts (50 sts)

Row 6: ch 1, sk 1st st, 1 sc in the next 22 sts, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in the next 23 sts, 1 sc2tog (47 sts) (Intermediate crocheters, work in back loops)

Row 7: ch 1, turn work, 1 hdc in same st. 1 hdc in each of the next 46 sts (47 sts)

Row 8: ch 1, sk 1st st, 1 sc in the next 21 sts, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in the next 21 sts, 1 sc2tog (44 sts) (Intermediate crocheters, work in back loops)

Row 9: ch 1, turn work, 1 hdc in same st. 1 hdc in each of the next 43 sts (44 sts)

Round 10: ch 1, sk 1st st, 1 sc in the next 2o sts, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in the next 19 sts, 1 sc2tog  (Intermediate crocheters, work in back loops) From here, continue to single crochet. 8 sc along the side, sk corner st where it bends in an “L” shape. Continue to sc 21 sts across forhead until you get to the next bend where you will skip the corner stitch where it bends into an “L” shape, continue to sc on the side 8 sc. (78 sts) (Intermediate crocheters, work in back loops)

Row 11: 1 hdc in each st this row (you are at the bottom row) (42 sts), to finish, make a sc in same st as the last hdc you did and in the next ch do a sl st. Leave a 4″ tail and weave in ends.

Inner layer: Make another piece for the inner layer using a smaller hook. No working in the back loops or 3rd loop in round 1. The inner layer is very simple and flat. Inner and outer layer have the same amount of stitches.

To attach: attach separate yarn anywhere and either single crochet together or use slip stitches. Weave all tails well so they don’t come out in the wash.

 

These ear warmers were made for:

Operation We Give – Items will be distributed to homeless shelters, warming centers, cancer centers, transitional homes, nursing homes, VA Hospital and the assistant center for women vets in the Detroit metropolitan area.

 

wide band ear warmerear warmer without capear warmer back

 

 

 

 

 

Soft French Beret

soft beret head front

I wanted to make a really nice beret for me. I wanted it to be a soft feminine beret. I like lace but it is not great when you are cold. For some reason I hate double crochet which many patterns are in. I only like it for lace or when it is not even noticeable because I can’t stand that homemade look it has in accessories.  Sorry if I offended anyone.

This hat is really easy! You will catch on to the basic pattern quick.

 

#7 Hook (4.5 mm) , use a G hook or an H hook if you don’t have one. The hat should measure 10.5″-10.75″ across at Round 14 , which is the widest point.

yarn: #3 DK or #2 Sport Weight

 

Round 1: ch 2, 11 sc in an adjustable circle, close circle, sl st to top of 2nd ch (12 sts)

Round 2: Working over the tail in this round,  (put a stitch marker around the 1st st of every round),  2 sc  blo (back loops only) in each st (24 sts)

Round 3: In blo, 1 sc in every st (24 sts)

Round 4: In blo,* 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next st*, repeat * to * 11 times (36 sts)

Round 5: In blo, 1 sc in every st (36 sts)

Round 6: In blo, *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts*, repeat * to * 11 times (48 sts)

Round 7: In blo, 1 sc in every st (48 sts)

Round 8: In blo *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts*, repeat * to * 11 times (60 sts)

Round 9: In blo, 1 sc in every st (60 sts)

Round 10: In blo, * 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next 4 sts, repeat * to * 11 times (72 sts)

Round 11: In blo, 1 sc in every st (72 sts)

Round 12: In blo, * 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat * to * 11 times (84 sts)

Round 13: In blo, 1 sc in every st (84 sts)

Round 14: In blo, *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc each of in the next 6 sts*, repeat * to * 11 times (96 times)

Round 15-16: In blo, 1 sc in every st in these 2 rounds (96 sts)

Round 17: In blo, *1 sc2tog in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts*, repeat * to * 11 times (84 sts)

Round 18: In blo, 1 sc in every st (84 sts)

Round 19: In blo, *1 sc2tog in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts*, repeat * to * 11 times (72 sts)

Round 20: In blo, 1 sc in every st (72 sts)

Round 21: In blo, *1 sc2tog in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts*, repeat * to * 11 times (60 sts)

Round 22: In blo, 1 sc in every st (60 sts)  [The width of the hat opening should be 10.25″ diameter or 20.5″ circumference]

Round 23-25: *1 fpsc, 1 bpsc,* repeat * to * 58 times (60 sts) , 1 sl st to end and weave in 7 inch tail well through the sts so it won’t come out in the wash. [The width of the hat opening should be 10-10.25″ in diameter at the end of Round 25. Use a smaller or larger hook to get that measurement if needed.

soft beret flatsoft beret upside downsoft beret side

 

Abbreviations:

ch – chain, chs – chains

st – stitch, sts – stitches

sc – single crochet

blo – back loops only

sc2tog- decrease single crochet stitch in which you put your hook through one stitch, yarn over and bring up through loop, keep both loops on the hook and put hook through 2nd stitch, yarn over and bring up a loop, pull this loop through the 1st 2 loops on the hook so you will have 2 single crochets made into one single crochet stitch.

fpsc – front post single crochet

bpsc – back post single crochet (hard to explain so I will post up a video but it is basically making a 1 x 1 rib.

Here is the photo tutorial from moogly.com . In the pattern I do one front post single crochet then one back post single crochet ,one front post single crochet, then one back post single crochet….this repeated makes a rib. You can do the same rib in half double crochet or double crochet which are easier but when you stretch it you will see bigger holes and the single crochet looks tighter and neater.

 

 

Chunky Baby Booties

chunky baby booties 2

CHUNKY NEWBORN BABY BOOTIES

size: Newborn (3.5-3.75″)

Yarn: #5 Bulky > Lion Brand Baby’s First Twinkle Toes Pink

J-Hook (6.0 mm)

 

Foundation: ch 7

Round 1: 2 hdc in the 3rd ch, 1 hdc in the next 3 chs, 6 hdc in the last ch. Working over tail on underside 1 hdc in the next chs, 2 hdc in the last ch. Sl st to top of first hdc.

Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. 2 hdc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the last st. Sl st to top of 1st st.

Round 3: Ch 1, 1 sc all around in the back loops only. Sl st to the top of the 1st sc. (26 sts)

Round 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in the next 5 sts, 8 sc2tog in he next 16 sts, 1 sc in the next 5 sts. Sl st to top of 1st sc. (18 sts)

Round 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 4 sts, 1 sc2tog in the next 2 sts, 2 dc2tog in the next 4 sts, 1 sc2tog in the next 2 sts. Sl st to top of 1st st. (14 sts)

Round 6-8: Ch 1, sc all around, sl st to top of 1st st.  (14 sts) For boys do one more row and fasten off.

Row 9: For girls – Ch 1, *sk 1 st, 1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc*. Repeat this cluster 6 more times and sl st to 1st ch to end.  Fasten Off and weave in tail.

chunky baby booties

 

Fingerless Mitts CAL/ KAL

These are not my patterns but these are so nice and I can’t wait wait to make a pair! If you would like to join me, please join the Joyful In Tribulation Ravelry Group and Hook the project. Please share your pics with our group! I have never made a pair of fingerless mitts and I can’t wait to start mine!

Gigis Fingerless gloves

Gigi’s Fingerless Mitts

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Limpet Mitts CAL

 

 

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Kylie Fingerless Mitts

P.S. – I just added 3 patterns in knit in the Joyful In Tribulation Fingerless Mitts CAL/KAL for the knitters! Sorry I forgot but I would love for you knitters to join us. These gloves looks really lovely in knit.

Babies, Kids and Teens Single Crochet Beanie

 

single crochet kids beanies

Single crochet is my favorite stitch. It looks very neat and clean as if it was done on a machine. Making a beanie in different stitches has its own challenges. Single crochet beanies done in the round is a little different than the basic half double crochet. When you increase, it happens so quickly that it begins to ripple. You can’t increase in every row.  You must alternate the increase rows with plain rows. I have listed the patterns for Newborn, Baby, Toddler, Child and Teen.

K-Hook (6.5 mm)

Gauge: 10.5 sts and 10.5 rows = 4″  (Worsted Gauge is 3.2 sts per 1″ . See chart below for stitch counts)

Yarn:  Bernat Super Value  #4 Aran 100% Acrylic Yarn

 

  • Newborn (0-3 mos) 6.5″ width, 7.0″ length with 1.5″ fold up brim

Round 1: In an adjustable circle, ch1, 7 sc, close circle and sl st to first sc. Single Crochet Baby Hat

Round 2: ch 1 (counts as 1 sc) Working over end tail to hide under the stitches of this round, 1 sc in same st. 2 sc every stitch. (total of 16 sts) do not slip stitch since we are working in the round with no seams.

Round 3: 1 sc in every stitch around . Remember to put the stitch marker around the 1st stitch of every round until we finish increasing. (16 sts)

Round 4: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next stitch*, Repeat * to * 7 more times. (24 sts)

Round 5: 1 sc in every stitch around. (24 sts)

Round 6: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in the next 2 sts*, Repeat * to * 7 more times (32 sts)

Round 7-21: 1 sc in every st and continue for the next 14 rounds or until beanie is 7″ in length. Sl st last st to end. Weave in 4″ tail through the threads so it won’t come out in the wash.

 

  • Baby (3-12 mos) with 1×1 Rib Brim –  7″ across, 6.25″ in length

Round 1: In an adjustable circle, ch 1, 8 sc, close circle, sl st close

Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc) Working over the tail end to hide in the stitches of this round, 1 sc in same st. 2 sc in each st. (total 18 sts) Do not slip st.

Round 3: 1 sc in each st around. Please put a stitch marker around 1st st of every round and keep it there to know where the rows end and begin approximately. (18 sts)

Round 4: *2 sc in first st,  1 sc in next st*, repeat * to * 8 more times (27 sts)

Round 5: 1 sc in each st around. (27 sts)

Round 6: *2 sc in first st, 1 sc in the next 2 sts*. Repeat * to * 8 more times. (36 sts)

Round 7: 1 sc in each st around. (36 sts)

Round 8-15: Continue to do 1 sc in each stitch for the next 8 rounds. (36 sts each round)

Round 9: 1 hdc all around. (36 sts)

Round 10: *1 fphdc, 1 bphdc*, Repeat 15 more times. For the last 4 sts, do *1 front post single crochet and 1 back post sc* and repeat this one more time. Sl st to end. Weave in 4″ tail through the stitches so the end won’t come out in the wash.

 

  • Toddler (2T-5T) with 1×1 Rib brim with 7.5″ width, 6.75″ length

Round 1: In an adjustable circle, ch 1, 9 sc, close circle, sl st close

Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc) Working over the tail end to hide in the stitches of this round, 1 sc in same st. 2 sc in each st. (total 20 sts) Do not slip st.

Round 3: 1 sc in each st around. Please put a stitch marker around 1st st of round 3-8  and keep it there to know where the rows end and begin approximately. (20 sts)

Round 4: *2 sc in first 1 sc in next st*, repeat * to * 9 more times (30 sts)

Round 5: 1 sc in each st around. (30 sts)

Round 6: *2 sc in first st, 1 sc in the next 2 sts*. Repeat * to * 9 more times. (40 sts)

Round 7: 1 sc in each st around. (40 sts)

Round 8-17: 1 sc in each stitch around.

Row 18: Do a round of hdc in each st (40 sts)

Round 10: *1 fphdc, 1 bphdc*, Repeat 16 more times. For the last 6 sts, do *1 front post single crochet and 1 back post sc* and repeat this 2 more times. Sl st to end. Weave in 4″ tail through the stitches so the end won’t come out in the wash.

 

  • Child (6-11) with 2 x 1 Rib Brim 8.5″ Width, 7.5″ length

Round 1: In an adjustable circle, ch 1, 8 sc, close circle, sl st to end round. (9 sts)

Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc),  Working over the tail end to hide in the stitches of this round, 1 sc in same st. 2 sc in each st. (total 18 sts) Do not slip st so we can keep going in a spiral.

Round 3: 1 sc in each st around. Please put a stitch marker around 1st st of every round and keep it there to know where the rows begins and ends. (18 sts)

Round 4: *2 sc in first st,  1 sc in next st*, repeat * to * 8 more times (27 sts)

Round 5: 1 sc in each st around. (27 sts)

Round 6: *2 sc in first st, 1 sc in the next 2 sts*. Repeat * to * 8 more times. (36 sts)

Round 7: 1 sc in each st around. (36 sts)

Round 8: *2 sc in first st, 1 sc in the next 3 sts*. Repeat * to * 9 more times. (45 sts)

Round 9-18: 1 sc in each stitch for 9 rows. End the last stitch with a slip stitch to end the spiral rounds of single crochet.

Row 19: Ch 2, 1 hdc in each stitch.  Sl st the end of round. (45 sts)

Row 20-21: Since it is an odd number of stitches we cant do the same rib as the other beanie sizes but this 2×1 Rib is just as nice.

2×1 Rib: Chain 2 *1 Fphdc in the next 2 stitches, 1 bphdc*, repeat 14 more times. Sl st to end round and weave in the 4″ end through the stitches so it won’t come out in the wash.

 

  • Teen (12-17) with 1×1 Rib Brim 9.25″ width, 8″ length, For a slouch beanie, add about 2″ to length.

Round 1: In an adjustable circle, ch 1, 9 sc, close circle, sl st close

Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc) Working over the tail end to hide in the stitches of this round, 1 sc in same st. 2 sc in each st. (total 20 sts) Do not slip st.

Round 3: 1 sc in each st around. Please put a stitch marker around 1st st of round 3-8  and keep it there to know where the rows end and begin approximately. (20 sts)

Round 4: *2 sc in first 1 sc in next st*, repeat * to * 9 more times (30 sts)

Round 5: 1 sc in each st around. (30 sts)

Round 6: *2 sc in first st, 1 sc in the next 2 sts*. Repeat * to * 9 more times. (40 sts)

Round 7: 1 sc in each st around. (40 sts)

Round 8: *2 sc in first st, 1 sc in the next 3 sts*. Repeat * to * 9 more times. (50 sts)

Round 9-20: 1 sc in each st around for the next 21 rounds. (50 sts each round)

Round 21: Do a round of hdc in each st. (50 sts)

Round 22: *1 fphdc (front post half double crochet), 1 bphdc (back post half double crochet)* repeat * to * 48 more times.

Round 23 and 24: same as round 22. For the last 5 stitches do front and back post single crochet. Sl st to end. Weave in 4″ of tail really well zig zagging and going through the stitches instead of under so it won’t come out in the wash.

 

If you have any questions or see something that needs correction: Please email me jitcroch t@gm il dot c m  << altered a bit to avoid spam but you know!

 

 

 

Children’s Crochet Hat Sizing Chart

Use G Hook for DK or Baby yarn, I Hook for worsted, K Hook for Aran

Age /

Circumference Averages

Increase Circle Diameter Hat Length

(Top of head to mid ear)

Hat Width

(flat across)

Approximate Stitch Count
Newborn (0-3 mos)

13-14”

4.25” 5.5” 6.5” G-hook – 48

I-Hook – 42

K-Hook – 34

Baby (3-12 mos)

16-19”

5.0” 6.25” 7.25” G-Hook – 54

I-Hook – 45

K-Hook – 36

Toddler (2T-5T)

18-20”

5.75” 6.75” 8.0” I-Hook 50

K-Hook – 40

Child (6-11)

19-20.5”

6.0” 7.25” 8.5” I-Hook –  54

K-Hook – 45

Teen (12-17)

20.5-22”

6.5” 8.25” 9.25” I -Hook 60

K-Hook – 50

 

Mesh Rib Cowl

Mesh Rib Cowl

This one came out so much nicer than I imagined!

I did this one with a J Hook and did 30 stitches across but it felt really loose, it looks good though. I tried it a 2nd time with 34 stitches and an I-Hook and it looks good too, I am still working on it but you can adjust it to whatever size you like.

I like the cowls about 10-11″ in width and about 9-10″ in height because I like how I can pull it up over my nose when it gets very chilly. I keep seeing cowls that are wider but the neck is totally exposed! To me that is like a total waste. I like functional and durable over trendy but I do think cowls are nicer than scarves right now. Because it is meshy it is so light weight and perfect for sending in the mail without breaking the bank. Nice texture too. This is great for Fall or Spring or a moderate Winter like we have here in California.

I-Hook

size: teen to adult

Foundation: Ch 35

Row 1: Working in back loops only. 1 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, *ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 sc in next ch* . Repeat 16 more times. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2-23: 1 sc in the first ch right next to the chain. *ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 sc in next ch*. Repeat 16 more times. (17 stitches in each row. You are putting each sc on top of the one from the previous row.)

Row 24: Ch 1. Using a sl st for this row, do a sl st all the way cross to connect both sides of this cowl. Finish off and weave in ends well.

Baby Sockies!

Baby socks are fun to do!

Sockies 2

I learned how to do these on Youtube but I made my pattern a little different but you might like the video better. Mine is pretty cute too and these are the ones I usually put with a hat so they have matching socks.

G-Hook and H-Hook and Baby Yarn

JIT Sockies:

Foundation: Ch 7 (1-2″ tail)

Round 1: (you are making an oval cup for the toes) 1 hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook, 1 hdc in the next 3 chs, 3 hdc in the last ch. In under side of chains, 3 hdc, 1 hdc in the last chain. Sl st to the top ch of the 1st hdc (12 stitches total)

Round 2: Ch 2, 1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next 2 sts, 4 hdc, 2 hdc in the last st. Sl St close to top of 1st hdc. (16 sts)

Round 3: ch 1, 1 sc in next 17 sts. Put a stitch marker around the 1st st so you know where each row begins. (17 sts)

Round 4-9: 1 sc around. I counted 85 stitches from the stitch marker.

Round 10: ch 1, turn work, 1 sc in the next 10 sts. (the next stitch is not the stitch close to the chain 1 so in the 2nd st for Round 10-15)

Round 11: ch 1, turn work, 1 sc in the next 9 sts.

Round 12: ch 1, turn work, 1 sc in the next 8 sts.

Round 13: ch 1, turn work, 1 sc in the next 7 sts.

Round 14: ch 1, turn work, 1 sc in the next 6 sts.

Round 15: ch 1, turn work, 1 sc in the next 5 sts.

 

This is hard to explain so let me tell you what you are going to do. The back of the heel has 5 sts and the front of sock has 6 sts. Each side we need to scrunch up and turn into 3 stitches on each side of the heel. To scrunch up, divide visually each side into  6 places and do 3 sc2tog stitches. A sc2tog stitch is put hook through one stitch, yarn over and bring up, put hook through 2nd stitch, yarn over and bring up so there are 3 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through all loops so you have 2 single crochets together in one stitch. The goal is to have 17 stitches. If you get 18 stitches, you can do an extra sc2tog at the heel part.

Round 16: 3 sc2tog on side of heel, 1 sc in the next 6 stitches, 3 sc2tog in the other side of heel, 1 sc in the next 6 sts.

Round 17: 1 sc, put a stitch marker around this 1st st, 1 sc in the next 16 stitches so you will have a total of 17 sts.

Round 18-22: keep doing 1 sc in each stitch for 5 more rows. (85 sts from stitch marker)

Round 23-28: switch to H-hook (5 mm) For the next 5 rows (167) sts from stitch marker) End the row at the back of the sock and weave in 4″end carefully so won’t come out in the wash.

 

Bundle of Joy Hat

Bundle of Joy Hat 4 Bundle of Joy Hat 6

This one is the one I did on the first try and I tried 2 others in a light weight yarn but didn’t work as well. Please use a medium weight or heavier weight because you will be able to see the texture better.  This one is very unique in that you can tie the top like a bundle. It looks like origami.  It measures about 5.5″ in length. Perfect for a newborn. When you untie the top and just knot the ends, it is like a different hat. It measures 7″ in length in the 2nd pic. Perfect for a 6th month old.  So this pattern is 0-6 months! My first son was a big baby. He didn’t fit in any of the baby shower 0-3 months clothes we had! We skipped that over to wear the 3-6 months clothes and accessories. They grow really fast so those baby newborn sizes only fit for a month at the most. Maybe even just 2 weeks!  It is just a baby take home set. Anyway this one is perfect for growing babies and super cute.

I-Hook (5.5 mm)

Foundation: Ch 40

Row 1: Ch 1, 40 sc, sl st

Row 2: ch 1, sk 1 st, *2 sc in next st. sk next st*, repeat * to * 19 more times, Do not sl st closed

Row 3-10: sk 1st st and 2 sc in the next (you are crocheting 2 stitches between the stitches of the previous row) Continue in the round 7 more rows.

Row 11-13: sc around for 3 rows. End by sl stitching in the last st. Weave in ends at the end of Row 13. Last stitch becomes side not back. It is a tube at this point.

Ties:

I did a thin tie for this one but I also did a thicker tie that you may like better. Whichever you want to do.

thin ties (make 2):

Foundation: Ch 15

Row 1: hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook. (3″ end tail). 13 more hdc. Finish off with another 3″ tail. Tie the end tails in a knot and weave both at the same time in the middle of the tie.

thick ties:

Foundation: Ch 15

Row 1: 1 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. (3″ end tail.) 1 sc in each of 13 ch. 5 sc in the last ch. 1 sc in each of the 14 ch on the underside of the chain. Finish off with a 3″ tail. Tie the end tails in a knot and weave both at the same time in the middle of the tie.

To attach ties, sew with yarn and a darning needle and sew ends to the sides of the hat and close the top of the hat with a whip stitch. You can start with one side and one tie and end with the other side and tie. Make the crochet ties face each other instead of sewing them flat so the appearance is like an “I” on the side when you look down on it.

 

 

 

 

Charity Baby Sets

I’ve been making a lot of baby sets lately. Most of them I already donated to a women’s pregnancy crises center. I am making 4 sets for Bev’s Country Cottage.  This is my favorite thing to crochet as you can tell from my posts. I finished 3 out of 4. I am only sending partial sets. She doesn’t need them until October. This might be a fun thing for you to try if you like to do this sort of thing.

heart wash cloth and matching baby hat Pink Shell Baby Girl Set Ribbed Baby Boy Set White Baby Boy Set