Roll Cuff Ankle Socks

Yarn: Premiere Yarns Cotton Collage or any Fingering Weight Sock Yarn, approximately 50 grams or 200 yards.

Needles: Size 0 (2.0 mm) and Size 1.5 (2.5 mm) knitting needles for any method you prefer for knitting socks in the round.

Gauge: 8.5 stitches per inch in larger needles. Use any needle size that gets this gauge.

Other tools needed: measuring tape or ruler, scissors, darning needle about 3 removable lock stitch markers in different colors.

Adult Size Medium – 3 1/2” – This finished measurement is taken is across the width of the sock foot while laying flat.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Cuff: Using a German Twisted Cast On and the smaller needles, cast on 60 stitches.

Knit 10 Rounds of stockinette stitch. (Just knit only.)

Switch to the larger needles.

Heel Flap: Turn work so you will be working on the purl side or wrong side (WS) of half of sock in rows. The front of the sock (Instep) will be left alone on the cable or 2 double pointed needles or a stitch holder while you work on the heel.

Row 1: (WS) *Sl1, P1* turn work

Row 2: (RS) Sl1, K29, turn work

Repeat Round 1 and 2 for a total of 15 times. (30 rows total)

Heel Turn:

Row 1: (WS) P17, P2tog, turn

Row 2: (RS) Sl1, K5, SSK, turn

Row 3: (WS) Sl1, P to 1 st before the gap, P2tog, turn work.

Row 4: (RS) Sl1, K to 1 st before the gap, SSK, turn work.

Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until all stitches are worked ending on Row 4. You now have 18 stitches left on this needle.

Note: I personally do my heel turn with a smaller needle to make this area more durable.

Gusset Set Up: (RS) Pick up and knit the slip stitches. You are picking up 15 plus 2 stitches more before the instep to close up the gap until you have 17 picked up stitches. Knit the 30 instep stitches that you were holding aside as you worked on the heel flap. Use a stitch marker before and after the instep if you are using 9” circulars. Now pick up and knit 2 stitches in the gap with the working yarn, pick up and knit the 15 slipped stitches. Knit half of heel stitches to reach and mark your new beginning of round (BOR) starting point with a stitch marker. (82 stitches total)

Note: I knit half of each slipped stitch, twisting the stitch to keep everything flat, tight and tidy. It is optional. Skip this step if you don’t know what I’m talking about.

Gusset Decreases:

Round 1: Knit all stitches for the entire round.

Round 2: K to 3 stitches before the instep, K2tog, K1, K32 instep stitches, K1, SSK, K to BOR heel marker.

Repeat these 2 rounds until you are back to the original 60 stitch count.

Foot: Continue each round in stockinette stitch until you are 1 1/2” from the finished foot measurement.

Toe: The toe is 17 rounds so you can figure out from doing a few inches of the foot how long the length is for 17 rounds.

This makes a rounded wedge toe. It is divided in 3 parts of instructions.

Toe Set Up:

K15. You are now back to your old BOR when you first cast on and it’s also the beginning of the instep. You have 30 sts for the instep and 30 sts for the sole stitches as separated by stitch markers or needles.

Toe Part 1:

Round 1: [K1, SSK, K to 3 sts before the marker, K2tog, K1] Repeat this one more time within the same round. This results in a decrease of 4 stitches.

Round 2: Just knit

Round 3: Just knit

Repeat Rounds 1-3 once more. You now have 56 sts.

Toe Part 2:

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for a total of 2 times.

You now have 44 sts.

Toe Part 3:

Repeat Round 1 , five more times. You now have 24 sts.

Graft toe with live stitches that are evenly divided onto 2 needles using the Kitchener Stitch.

Weave in ends with the darning needle.

Congratulations! Now go make the 2nd sock.

Striped Ankle Socks

Yarn: 4 ply, #1 Weight or Fingering Weight Sock Yarn in 2 contrasting Colors.

Main color (MC) is the cuff, stripes, heel and toe.

Contrasting Color (CC) is the 2nd stripe color.

Gauge: 9 sts and 12 rounds per inch.

Needles: US size 1 (2.25 mm) Double Pointed Knitting Needles and Size 0 (2 mm) 9”or 10” circular knitting needles.

Other tools needed: measuring tape or ruler with 1/16” increments, scissors, darning needle about 3 removable lock stitch markers. (One stitch marker is for beginning of round and should look different than the other 2 stitch markers.)

Adult Sizes: Small 3.5” (Medium 3.75” ) This measurement taken is across the foot while sock is laying flat.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Cuff

Using MC and a Spaced Apart Long Tail Cast On or German Twist Cast On, Cast on 60 (68) stitches on DPNs.

Knit 5 Rounds of 2×2 Rib.

2×2 Rib: [K2, P2] repeating this for the entire round.

Heel Flap

Turn work so you will be working on the purl side or wrong side (WS) of half of sock in rows. The front of the sock (Instep) will be left alone on the cable or 2 double pointed needles or a stitch holder while you work on the heel.

Row 1: (WS) Sl 1, P to end, turn

Row 2: (RS) Sl 1, K to end, turn

Repeat Round 1 and 2 for total of 15 (17)times or 30 (34) rows.

Heel Turn

Row 1: (WS) Purl 17(19) P2tog, P1, turn

Row 2: (RS) Sl1, K5, SSK, K1, turn

Row 3: (WS) Sl1, P to 1 st before the gap, P2tog, P1, turn

Row 4: (RS) Sl1, K to 1 st before the gap, SSK, K1, turn

Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until all stitches are worked ending on Row 4. You now have 18 (20) stitches left on this needle.

Gusset Set Up

(RS) Pick up and knit the slip stitches 15 (17) plus 2 stitches more before the instep to close up the gap until you have 17 (19) picked up stitches. Knit the 30 (34) instep stitches that you were holding as you put them on 1 needle if you are using DPNs and keep them separated by stitch markers. Now pick up and knit 2 stitches in the gap with the working yarn, pick up and knit the 15 (17) slipped stitches. Switch to the circular needles. Knit half of heel stitches to reach your new beginning of round starting point. Place a beginning of round (BOR) stitch marker here to remind you.

Add CC yarn to begin Stripe Sequence Pattern while working the gusset decreases and then while working on the foot. You will be carrying the switched yarn up to the toe at the bottom of the foot.

Stripe Sequence Pattern:

Knit 2 rounds using CC yarn. Knit 2 rounds using MC yarn. Do not cut any yarn until instructed. (You will cut CC yarn when working the toe.)

Gusset Decreases

Round 1: Knit all stitches for the entire round.

Round 2: K to 2 stitches before the instep, K2tog, K30 (34) instep stitches, SSK, K to BOR heel marker.

Repeat these 2 rounds until you are back to the original 60 (68) stitch count.

Foot

Continue in the 2 color Stripe Sequence Pattern for the foot area ending on a CC stripe until you are 1 3/4” (2 1/4”) before final sock foot length. The final foot length is the actual foot length minus approximately 1/16” to 1/8” for negative ease for the best fit.

Toe

This makes a rounded wedge toe. It is divided in 3 parts of instructions.

Toe Set Up

K15(17) with same MC yarn. You are now at a new beginning of round (BOR) and the beginning of the instep. Put a stitch marker here. Put another stitch marker at the end of instep. You have 30(34) for the instep and 30(34) stitches for the sole stitches as separated by stitch markers or needles. Use only the MC yarn for the entire toe area. Switch to DPNs starting with Round 1. Cut CC yarn with 8” tail.

Toe Part 1:

For size S and M:

Round 1-8: Just Knit only 60(68) stitches. If you are using DPNs, arrange your needles as follows: N1-30(34), N2-15(17), N3-15(17)

Round 9: [K1, SSK, K to 3 sts before the marker, K2tog, K1] Repeat this one more time within the same round. This results in a decrease of 4 stitches.

Round 10 & 11: Just knit

You now have 56(64) sts.

For size S and M: Repeat Rounds 9-11 once (twice).

You now have 52(56) sts

Toe Part 2:

Size S and M: Repeat Rounds 9 & 10 two (three) more times.

You now have 44 stitches for size S and M.

Toe Part 3:

Size S & M: Repeat Round 9 five more times. You now have 24 sts.

Divide these 24 stitches on 3 needles with 12 on each needle.

Graft toe using Kitchener Stitch.

Congratulations! Make the 2nd sock, wash in cold water and dry on delicate or hang dry. For blocking, lay flat so the cuff will remain stretchy.

If you like this pattern, please donate a few bucks to my Ko-Fi account. Thanks in advance. 🧦🌻

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Comfort Knitting Basic Socks

This is my basic sock pattern. It is very comforting to do stockinette with wood needles. I like the 5” or 6” ones because the wood helps you from losing stitches and it is compact and light weight. This commercial faux fair isle yarn is so fun and interesting to knit and hides all the imperfections of your knitting.

Yarn: Rico Design, Superba Bamboo Superwash Sock Yarn (50% Virgin Wool/ 25% Bamboo Viscose/ 25% Polyamide) 100 grams

Gauge: 9 sts and 12 rounds per inch.

Needles: Double Pointed Knitting Needles US size 1 , 5-6” length bamboo or wood (2.25 mm), Set of 5

Other tools needed: scissors, darning needle about 4 removable lock stitch markers.

Adult Sizes: Small 3.5” Medium 3.75” (measurement of sock across the foot)

INSTRUCTIONS:

Cuff: Using a Long Tail Cast On or German Twist Cast On and the larger needles, Cast on 60 (68) stitches on one needle, then transfer to 3 needles.

20-20-20 or 24-20-24

In 2×2 Rib, make a 1.5” cuff.

2×2 Rib: [K2, P2] repeating this for each round.

Leg: Knit in stockinette stitch (just knit stitch) for 3.5”. Use an extra needle to transfer stitches evenly on 4 needles, 15 (17) stitches each needle.

Heel Flap: Turn work so you will be working on the purl side of half of sock in rows.

For 1st row, combine half of back stitches on 1 needle. You will be working these stitches in a flat manner.

Row 1) (WS) *Sl1wyif, P1*, repeat to end of row, turn

Row 2) (RS) Sl1kw, knit to the end of row, turn

Repeat Round 1 and 2 for total of 15 (17)times.

Heel Turn:

Row 1: (WS) Purl 17(19) P2tog, P1, turn

Row 2: (RS) Sl1, K5, SSK, K1, turn

Row 3: (WS) Sl1, P to 1 st before the gap, P2tog, P1, turn

Row 4: (RS) Sl1, K to 1 st before the gap, SSK, K1, turn

Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until all stitches are worked ending on Row 4. You now have 18 (20) stitches left on this needle.

Gusset: (RS) Using a spare needle, pick up and knit the slipped edge stitches of the left side plus 2 more before the instep until you have 17 (19) picked up stitches on that needle. Pick up 2 more stitches before the instep stitches to close up any gaps. With a new needle, knit 30 (34) instep stitches putting them on 1 needle, with another spare needle, knit 2 stitches in the gap with the working yarn, pick up and knit the 15 (17) slipped edge stitches.

You now have 18 (20) heel stitches, 17(19) stitches on both sides of flap, 30 (34) of the instep stitches on one needle. This is total stitch count of 82 (92) stitches on 4 needles. The middle of the heel stitches is now the new beginning of round. Place a marker at this point to remind you.

Gusset Decreases:

1. Knit all stitches

2. K to 3 stitches before the instep, K2tog, K1, knit 30 (34) instep stitches, K1, SSK, K to heel marker.

Repeat these 2 rounds until you are back to the original 60 (68) stitch count. K15 (17) with one needle to get back to the original beginning of round. K60 (68) and arrange stitches as you go so you have 15 (17) stitches per needle again.

Foot: Place a marker at the first stitch at the beginning of round that will stay there until you finish both socks. At the same time you can remove the stitch marker at the middle of the heel. Knit in stockinette stitch each round until you are 1.75” (1.5”) before final sock foot length and before doing the toe part of the sock.

Toe: This makes a rounded wedge toe. Place a marker on the first stitch and let it remain there until you complete both socks. I use the stitch markers to help me measure the 2nd sock so they match.

Round 1: [K1, SSK, K to end of the 1st DPN, K to 3 sts before the end of the 2nd DPN, SSK, K1] repeat on next 2 DPNs.

Round 2 & 3: Just knit

Repeat Rounds 1-3 one (two) more times. You now have 52 (56) sts total.

Round 4: [K1, K2tog, K to end of 1st DPN, K to 3 sts before the end of the 2nd DPN, SSK, K1] Repeat on next 2 DPNs.

Round 5: Just knit

Repeat rounds 4 & 5 one (two) more times. You now have a total of 44 (44) sts.

Round 7: [K1, K2tog, K to end of the 1st DPN, K to 3 sts before the end of the 2nd DPN, SSK, K1]

Repeat Round 7 until you have a total of 24 sts.

Arrange remaining sts on 2 needles. 12 instep sts one 1 needle and 12 soles on the other needle. When you do the sock multiple times, it will be easy to figure out how to do the toe using 4 needles instead of 5 with all the instep stitches on one needle.

Graft toe using Kitchener Stitch.

Congratulations! Make the 2nd sock, wash in cold water and dry on delicate.

Slouchy Scrunchy Socks

Free knitted sock pattern in sport weight yarn.

Yarn: Briggs and Little, Durasport, Denim Blue, 80% Wool/ 20% Nylon

Gauge: 8 stitches and 10 rounds per inch, in sport weight with size 2 needles, For smaller size – 8.5 stitches and 12 rounds per inch in fingering weight. Use whatever size needles gives you the correct gauge. Make a swatch tube in the round at least 2” in length.

Needles: Medium Size – Double Pointed Knitting Needles US size 3 (3.25 mm) for the cuff and US size 2 (2.75 mm) for the foot

Small Size – Double Pointed Knitting Needles US size 2 (2.75 mm) for the cuff and US size 1 (2.25 mm) for the foot

Other tools needed: scissors, darning needle and 2 dozen removable stitch markers.

Adult Sizes: Medium is 3.75” across the sock, Small is 3.5” across the sock

INSTRUCTIONS:

Cuff: Using a Long Tail Cast On or the German Twisted Cast On with the larger needles, Cast on 68 stitches.

In 2×2 Rib, Make a 10” (9” for small size) cuff.

2×2 Rib: [K2, P2] repeating this for each round.

Foot: Switch to the smaller needles and reduce the stitches to 60 stitches in the following manner:

[K6, K2tog, K7, K2tog] Repeat this 3 more times, 4 times total (8 stitches reduced)

Knit in stockinette stitch (just knit stitch) for 4 rounds.

Heel Flap: Turn work so you will work the last 30 stitches you just knitted.

For 1st round, combine all 30 stitches on 1 needle. You will be working these stitches in a flat manner.

Row 1) (WS) K2, P26, K2, turn

Row 2) (RS) Knit only, turn

Repeat Round 1 and 2 for total of 15 times. Tally on a piece of paper to avoid mistakes.

Heel Turn:

Row 1: (WS) Purl 17, P2tog, P1, turn

Row 2: (RS) Sl1, K5, SSK, K1, turn

Row 3: (WS) Sl1, P to 1 st before the gap, P2tog, P1, turn

Row 4: (RS) Sl1, K to 1 st before the gap, SSK, K1, turn

Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until all stitches are worked ending on the last stitch of Row 4

Gusset: (RS) Using a spare needle, pick up 1 yarn of the outer most part of garter stitch nubs on the edge of the left side of heel until you have 15 picked up stitches on that needle. With working yarn, knit those 15 stitches. Pick up 2 more stitches before the instep stitches still held on DPNs to close up any gaps. Knit 30 stitches of instep stitches and put them on 1 needle, with the spare needle, pick up 2 stitches in the gap, pick up 15 stitches on the garter edge nubs on the right side of heel flap.

You now have 18 heel stitches, 17 picked up stitches on both sides and 30 instep stitches. 18 + 17 + 30 + 17 = 82 stitches total on 4 needles. The middle of the heel stitches is now the new beginning of round. Place a marker at this point to remind yourself.

Gusset Decrease Round 1: Knit all stitches.

Gusset decreased: K to 3 stitches before the instep, K2tog, K1, Knit Instep stitches, K1, SSK, K to marker.

Repeat these 2 rounds until you are back to the original 60 stitch count. Remove marker, K 15. You are now back to the original start of round.

Foot: marking every 10 rounds at the beginning of round with a stitch marker to easily know how many rounds you have done, knit in stockinette stitch (just knitting) each round until you have made a a foot length 1.75” (1.5”) before final sock foot length and before doing the toe part of the sock.

Toe: This makes a rounded wedge toe.

Round 1: [K1, K2tog, K24, SSK, K1] repeat 1 time, 56 stitches remain.

Round 2 & 3: Just knit

Round 4: [ K1, K2tog, K22, SSK, K1] Repeat 1 time. 52 stitches remain.

Round 5 & 6: Just knit

Round 7: [K1, K2tog, K20, SSK, K1] Repeat 1 time. 48 stitches remain.

Round 8: Just Knit

Round 9: [K1, K2tog, K18, SSK, K1] Repeat 1 time. 44 stitches remain.

Round 10: Just knit

Round 11: [K1, K2tog, K16, SSK, K1] Repeat 1 time. 40 stitches remain.

Round 12: Just Knit

Round 13: [K1, K2tog, K14,SSK, K1] Repeat 1 time. 36 stitches remain.

Round 14: [K1, K2tog, K12, SSK, K1] Repeat 1 time. 32 stitches remain

Round 15: [K1, K2tog, K10, SSK, K1] Repeat 1 time. 28 stitches remain.

Round 16: [K1, K2tog, K8, SSK, K1] Repeat 1 time. 24 stitches remain.

Round 17: [K1, K2tog, K6, SSK, K1] Repeat 1 time. 20 stitches remain.

Graft toe using Kitchener Stitch.

Congratulations! Make the 2nd

Sock and wash in cold water and dry on delicate.

If you have completed this pattern, please let me know by posting it to social media using the hashtag #jitproject or #ecojoyknits

Button Coin Pouch

img_20190723_184354.jpgGauge: 3.75 sts and 4 rows = 1” inch

Tools: Size G (4 mm) Crochet hook

Stitch Markers: 1 removable 

Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Yarn. 100% Acrylic. Aran Weight

Notions: 1 – 24L button (⅝” diameter) with needle and thread to put it on with.

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner 

Size:  One size (3” x 2.5”)

 

Instructions:   Starting from bottom of bag

Foundational Round: Make a Slip stitch with a 4” tail. Loosely make 10 ch sts. Make a sc in the 3rd ch from the hook. (This counts as 2 sts in one ch.) Sc in next 6 ch loops. In the next ch which is the last ch, make 4 sc sts in this one ch going over the tail and pulling it to close. Sc in the next 6 sts. In the last one, make 2 sc. Sl st in the 2nd sc top.  (total of 20 sc)

Note: sometimes I am short a space. That is because I sometimes miss where the 1st space is after the 4 sc in one st. Go back and see.

Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as the ch 1. Put a st marker on the 1st st. Sc 19. Sl st to the 1st st (the one with the stitch marker.) (20 sts)

Round 3-9: Repeat Round 2.

 

Flap with button hole

Round 10: Ch. 1, sc in the next st 9 sts. sc2tog in the last 2 sts, turn. (10 sts)

Round 11: Ch 1,  sc in the next 7 sts, sc2tog in the last 2 sts, turn. (8 sts)

Round 12: Ch 1, sc in the next 5 sts, sc2tog in the last 2 sts, turn (6 sts)

Round 13: Ch 1, sc in the next st, 1 hdc, ch 3, 1 hdc, sc2tog in the last 2 sts. (4 sts)

 Finish: Pull up yarn through live loop and leave a 6” tail. Use a blunt needle to sew the end down neatly and weave ends on inside of flap.

Button: Put flap down and use stitch marker to indicate where button should go. Lift flap up and use fingers to keep from sewing into back. Sew button securely with needle and thread.

             

JIT Handmade by DeeAnn H

joyfulintribulation.wordpress.com

Please post on Social Media using #jitproject

Swirl Eyelet Knit Bag

Knit Eyelet Bag

Gauge: 4 sts  and 5 rows = 1” in stockinette in larger needles

Tools:  #9 – 5.5 mm DPNs and  #10 – 6 mm circular needles 20-24” , #10 straight needles 9-14”

Stitch Markers: 1-3 removable markers

Yarn: Lily Sugar and Cream Super Size 100% Cotton #4 Weight – 2 balls (about 250 yds)

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner to Intermediate

Size:  One size (25 1/2″ x 14″)

 

Instructions: (Starting from bottom of bag)

Round 1: With one DPN in left hand, thumb cast on 12 sts.  With 2nd DPN K4, with 3rd DPN K4, with 4th DPN K4, join in the round and place marker on 1st st. Move up marker every few rounds. (12 sts)

Round 2 and all even rounds: Knit only (12 sts)

Round 3: *K1, YO* for a total of 12 times (24 sts)

Round 5: *K2, YO* for a total of 12 times (36 sts)

Round 7:  *K3, YO* for a total of 12 times (48 sts)

Round 9:  *K4, YO* for a total of 12 times (60 sts)

Round 11:  *K5, YO* for a total of 12 times (72 sts)

Round 13:  *K6, YO* for a total of 12 times (84sts)

Round 15:  *K7, YO* for a total of 12 times (96 sts)

 

Switch to Circular Needles

 

Round 17: *SSK, K6, YO* for a total of 12 times (96 sts)

Round 18: Knit only (96 sts)

 

Repeat Round 17 and 18 for 12” from cast on

 

Next 3 Rounds:  Stockinette, Knit only

 

Handle:

Set up Round:  K48 sts,  Leave on Circular Needles to just sit there until the handle is finished.

 

Knit side (RS): Use the straight needles Sl, K47, turn

Put stitch marker at st #24 to help you know where  strap started. 

On purl side Row (WS): Sl 1, P to end, turn

 

Next Row (RS): *Sl 1, SSK twice, K to last 5 sts, K2tog twice, K1, turn (You have decreased 4 sts)

Next Row (WS): Sl 1, P to end, turn

 

Repeat the last 2 rows until you have 16 sts remaining.

 

Next Round (RS): Sl 1, SSK,  K to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1, turn

Purl Round (WS): Sl 1, P to end.

 

Repeat the last 2 rows 2 more  times until you have 10 sts

Continue the length of the strap until you reach about  23-24” of strap.

Use stitch marker or a little bit after last eyelet to measure.

 

Increase Row: Sl 1, Kfb, K to last 3 sts. Kfb, K2, turn. (You have increased 2 sts)

Next Row: Sl 1, P to end, turn

 

Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 16 sts.

 

Next Row (RS): Sl 1, Kfb twice, K to last 4 sts, Kfb twice, K2, turn. (You have increased 4 sts)

Next Row (WS): Sl 1, Purl to end

 

Repeat the last 2 rows until you are back to 48 sts.

 

Kitchener sts together with  live sts on circular needles. Secure with a good knot.  Cinch up the bottom from the inside securing ends with a knot.  Weave in ends.

 

 

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